SMOKED ELM
OYSTER SOUP.
Wood smoke. Korean fermentation. Peruvian chile. One surprisingly substantial wild mushroom.
Print-friendly editorial recipe ↗
The common name “elm oyster” can be a little misleading. Here in Wisconsin, every Hypsizygus ulmarius I’ve personally found has been growing on box elder — never elm. This recipe takes that substantial wild mushroom and gives it a trip through smoke, Korean fermentation and Peruvian chile.
The idea is to smoke the caps gill-side up, allowing their natural bowl shape to catch some of the moisture they release. If that liquid collects, it becomes part of the broth rather than something we lose to the smoker.
Smoke. Earthiness. Fermentation.
Fruity heat. Bright acidity.

Method
- Smoke the mushrooms. Heat a smoker to 225°F / 107°C. Clean and trim mushrooms but leave unseasoned. Arrange gill-side up on a silicone-lined pan and begin checking after 30 minutes. Reserve any liquid collected in the caps.
- Build a pale mirepoix. Gently sweat shallots, celery and leek in butter for 8–10 minutes without browning. Add garlic and ginger for another minute.
- Build the broth. Add mushroom stock and bring to a gentle simmer. Dissolve the doenjang in a ladle of hot broth, then add it to the pot with the ají amarillo.
- Bring it together. Reserve a few attractive mushrooms for garnish, chop the rest and simmer in the broth with any smoked juices for 10–15 minutes.
- Finish. Stir in vinegar. Season to taste; add soy sauce only if needed. Serve with scallions, sesame seeds, a few drops of toasted sesame oil and reserved mushroom pieces.

Field Note
Never identify a wild mushroom from a single feature. Confirm the host and growth habit, cap, gills, stem and other relevant characteristics before eating.

